#Overwintering vegetables

[healthyboom]

Mastering the Art of Year-Round Vegetable Gardening: Tips, Techniques, and Inspiration

Discover the secrets to cultivating a thriving vegetable garden all year round with our comprehensive guide, "Mastering the Art of Year-Round Vegetable Gardening: Tips, Techniques, and Inspiration." Whether you're a seasoned gardener or just starting out, this resource is your go-to reference for achieving continuous harvests and keeping your garden vibrant in every season. Uncover expert tips on extending the growing season, protecting plants from frost, maximizing indoor gardening spaces, and selecting the right winter vegetable varieties. With step-by-step instructions, innovative techniques, and inspiring ideas, this guide empowers you to create a bountiful and sustainable vegetable garden that yields fresh produce throughout the year. Start your year-round gardening journey today and enjoy homegrown goodness in every season.

[inthecityofgoodabode]

October 2024: Curbside Find, Harvests & Early Voting

I found this firepit on the curb while dog walking:

Refurbished after a good cleaning & few coats of heat resistant paint:

Thursday harvest:

Friday harvest:

We're going to try overwintering pepper plants indoors again:

Saturday harvest:

Our ginger is starting to bud:

Old & new Chrysanthemums that we transplanted to these pots:

The bees of Saturday:

The Red Menace enjoying the sun:

The front yard volunteer cucumbers have slowed a bit but are still producing:

We got our early vote on Saturday. In addition to the elections, there were several referendums to amend The City's charter. One of the referendums, No. 5908, related to 3 amendments aimed at curbing gun violence in the city. The Republican-controlled state house and senate fought to have those referendums kept off the ballot and, when they lost in court, they withheld state tax revenue funds due to the city.

As is our tradition, we made a date out of it by going to a restaurant afterwards:

Me back at the house:

[mostlyihyperfixate]

One last vegetable this season.

[petula-xx]

9 days until Spring and this is a snap shot of what's going on in my capsicum patch.

These babies have over wintered so well in their little micro climate next to a sunny brick wall. These plants are about 4 years old now.

I fed them today, gave them a fresh top of soil and mulch. Grow season is just around the corner!

[mossiestpiglet]

[ID: Three strawberries, the background is white with circles made of blue spots. End ID]

Got excited by the fact that I am actually getting a strawberry crop this year and decided to play food photographer!

[tomorrowsgardennc]

garden update // august 27th 2024

it's greenhouse time.

besides the fact that the next two days have a heat index over 100°F... but trying REALLY HARD to keep these fall babies nice and cool. walking egyptian onions and microdwarf tomatoes won't mind the heat. but the kale and peas will!! hopefully they will be ok, and once this heat wave is over i'm starting soooo many more trays.

this time of year is perfect for planting any perennials, btw. i ordered me another little miss figgy to go with my first one. do i need two? no. but i feel like two is a good number for my garden. i have two blueberry bushes and two prickly pears, so why not two figs. the blue plastic containers have the bottoms cut off - a makeshift raised bed until i can build the one i really want around it. someday. it's also the perfect time of year to get hot peppers out of the ground and into the greenhouse for overwintering. they don't mind at all, and then next spring these babies will go right back into the ground (or sold at the market).

these two tall raised beds are gonna be for my garlic this winter. one has pepper plants that i'll be transplanting soon so i can top off with compost and i can get my softneck garlic started, but the other one. the other one is going to be a little bit of a worry. right now it's overflowing with sweet potato vine (and hoprfully full of purple sweet potatoes!) but i thought harvesting them was in september. turns out sweet potatoes you harvest the day before first frost... weeeee bit too late for garlic. i ordered some hardneck garlic so i can offer that next year to put here, but looks like i'll need to find a different spot for them or hope for the best. haven't decided yet.

1st year raspberry canes are turning yellow, which means they'll be ready to transplant to their final home soon. only issue is i haven't even BEGUN to get their final home ready 😐 they are going to replace the azalea bushes in the background, since they don't get shade anymore. hard to believe the front yard was full shade when we bought this house in 2016 and now there's not one bit of shade to be found - just yummy vegetables and fruit! (i'm stalling so i don't have to go outside and start ripping up azaleas shhhh). raspberries produce on 2 year old canes (or wood, stems, etc. idk why they call them canes) so transplanting them this fall is crucial.

i swear on my little miss figgy bushes that once this heat wave is gone it's go time. chronic illness PLEASE cooperate thank you 🙏

[proton-wobbler]

Warbler Showdown; Bracket 7.2, Poll 3

Nashville Warbler (Leiothlypis ruficapilla)

IUCN Rating: Least Concern

Range: migratory; each subspecies has a separate breeding range, with one covering the Northeast and northern Midwest, as well as the Canadian Providences above them and the other breeding in the Pacific Northwest, California, Idaho, and Montana, as well as British Columbia. Both overwinter in Mexico, especially along the southwestern states of the country, though the Western subspecies is sometimes found in California.

Habitat: second growth, open deciduous, or mixed-species forests; western birds occur and nest in higher elevation than their eastern counterparts. Overwinter in low deciduous open forests and suburban gardens.

Subspecies: 2

Pink-headed Warbler (Cardellina versicolor)

IUCN Rating: Least Concern

Range: resident (non-migratory); found in a small section of Chiapas in Mexico and the Guatemalan highlands

Habitat: pine-oak and montane evergreen forests, with a preference for the edges and secondary vegetation.

Subspecies: none

Image Sources: Nashville (Gracie McMahon); Pink (Ana Paula Oxom)

[libraryofmoths]

Moth of the Week

Angle Shades

Phlogophora meticulosa

Image source

The angle shades is a part of the family Noctuidae. This species was first described in 1758 by Carl Linnaeus. According to Wikipedia, this moth gets its common name from the colors and marking on its wings.

Description The forewings of this moth are shaped with a sharp point. Most of the forewing is buffish as well as the head, legs, body, and antennae. The middle of the forewing is split by a triangle. The bottom of the triangle lays on the termen of the forewing or “the edge of the wing most distant from the body.” The triangle is made of layers of brown and pink. The hindwings are whitish with darker veins.

ab. roseobrunnea ab. nov [Warren], the central triangle is a rich red brown tinged with fulvous (tawny/orange), the whole wing reddish tinged, and the green shades all strongly mixed with red, the metathorax and dorsal tufts also being deep fulvous instead of green; found in São Jorge Island in the Azores

Wingspan Range: 45 - 52 mm (≈1.77 - 2.05 in)

Diet and Habitat This species eats a wide range of herbaceous plants such as Common Nettle (Urtica dioica), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber), Broad-leaved Dock (Rumex obtusifolius), Bramble (Rubus fruiticosus), Hazel (Corylus avellana), birches, oak, basil, and broccoli.

They are distributed throughout Europe. Their reach spans eastto the Urals, southeast to Syria, Armenia, and Asia Minor, west to Azores, and south to Algeria. They are a strongly migratory species. It is found in a variety of habitats such as gardens, hedgerows, fens, woodland, grasslands, farmland, wetlands, heathland, and moorland.

Mating This moth is generally seen from May to October and has two generations per year. The larva overwinter in soil as pupa.

Predators This species flies mainly at night. They are presumably preyed on by nighttime predators such as bats. This moth uses its coloration to disguise itself as a wilted leaf when at rest. They can be seen during the day resting on walls, vegetation, and feces.

Fun Fact The angle shades is attracted to light and sugar.

(Source: Wikipedia [1][2], Butterfly Conservation, The Wildlife Trusts)

[turtlesandfrogs]

Seed Starting for Beginners- another class I taught Pre-pandemic, edited down for posting here. 

Seed Basics:

Anatomy: seeds basically consist of seed leaves (aka cotyledons), an embryo, and a seed wall. The cotyledons are food storage, and usually the first leaves that emerge and photosynthesize*. Seeds are dormant, but they are still alive and they are still exchanging gas (breathing) and using up energy stores. Ideally, most vegetable seeds are stored somewhere cold and dry. The colder and drier a seed is kept, the slower it’s metabolism, and the more vigorously it will sprout once conditions are correct (though, as this is biology, there are plenty exceptions- pawpaws come to mind). I keep my seed packets in a closed glass jar with a silica packet in my freezer. If you want to nerd out, here’s a link to a pretty famous seed vault, where seeds are kept below 0 degrees fahrenheit: https://www.croptrust.org/our-work/svalbard-global-seed-vault/ 

Sprouting/germinating/breaking dormancy: For most vegetables, all that is needed for seeds to sprout is warmth and moisture. Some will germinate better in the dark, some will germinate better with light (the package will tell you what is needed). For fruits, herbs, and flowers, sometimes they will need additional steps, such as cold stratification, or breaking the seed wall. 

Basics of Seed Starting:

Step one is to decide what you want to grow- vegetables, herbs, flowers?

Important questions:

What do I actually (want to) eat? (Ie, don’t just grow radishes because they’re easy- will you actually eat/enjoy it?). What would I eat more of if it weren’t so expensive? Make a list. 

What grows well here? What Hardiness/heat/climate zone are you in? Do you have microclimates to account for? What are they? Connect with your local extension office (in the US) to find out what grows well where you are and keys to success

Step two: Figure out when to start your seeds:

First, check the seed packet/website description and find your last frost date. Some plants, like broccoli, have a wide general time range to plant them in, but some varieties are meant for spring, or summer, or to overwinter. It’s best to get the specific variety’s information if possible.

If not that, then using a seed starting calculator like Johnny’s is next best. 

Or, go to a regional planting chart like Tilth’s. Or find your local extension office, they probably have a planting calendar.

Keep track of which ones are sown indoors, sown directly, and when the switch happens. For example, you can sow cucumbers a week or two before your last frost indoors, or a week after the last frost directly into the ground. Also note when plants started indoors should be transplanted outdoors

Consider the “winter sowing” technique- Basically, sowing seeds in mini greenhouses (aka, cloches), usually made from used plastic containers, and letting the seeds come up when they will. Makes very sturdy plants, might not get as early as a start.

Step Three: How?

Containers: Please use standard plastic tray, newspaper pots, peat plugs, used food containers, etc. that have a decent amount of space and adequate drainage.

Why not egg cartons/eggshells? Because they a) do not have enough space for seeds to do much more than sprout and b) the egg cartons tend to dry soil out very quickly.

Medium: Seed starting mix, potting soil, whatever, do NOT use garden soil without killing the weed seeds first. If you use a seed starting mix, keep in mind that it won’t have enough fertility to support the seedlings for very long. It is meant to be used to germinate seeds, and then have those seedlings transplanted into a richer mix to grow on. Also, I recommend NOT using coffee grounds as part of your seedling mix, because they have been shown to inhibit germination.

Which do well with transplant, which do not: (paper pots are great for those that don’t like transplanting)

Take well to transplanting: brassicas (think broccoli family), nightshades (tomato family), leafy greens

Fussy and need help to transplant well: Squash, cucumbers, melons, etc

Just don’t: carrots, beets, other root crops.

If they don’t transplant well, focus on direct sowing. The above IS NOT an exhaustive list.

Light: Give them as much as possible, a south facing window, or indoor grow lights. If you’re using a light, look for one that says full spectrum, daylight, or says it is over 5000 kelvin.

The warmer you keep the seedlings, the brighter the light they need. Warmth determines their metabolism, and light is their fuel/food, so you can keep them from etoliating/stretching out by keeping them at cooler temperatures. Slower growth at the same light intensity yields sturdier seedlings. Keeping seedlings at cooler temperatures can help you get stocky, sturdy, vigorous plants. This is a really big key, so pay attention. A lot of people struggle with weak seedlings that have stretched out in their search for light, and that can be avoided if you match temperature to light levels.

Actually doing it:

Fill your container(s). Tamp down soil- movement of water depends on capillary action, which depends on the soil particles being close enough together. Consult package on depth, or use 3x diameter of seed. Plant. Water. Wait. 

Watering: keep evenly moist, do not let them dry out. Not so much that it’s soggy though- so after you water they shouldn’t be sitting in a puddle of water an hour later. I prefer to bottom water. To do that, put your container in a tray of water, and let it soak up. If you’ve tamped it down properly, you’ll see the surface moisten. 

So they’ve sprouted, now what? 

If you’re using a peat or commercial seed starting mix, it likely doesn’t have enough fertility to support growth beyond the first few true seed leaves. That means that as soon as you see true leaves coming out, you have two choices: either use a water-soluble fertilizer, or gently transfer the seedlings to a more fertile soil mix. 

The big day: planting outside! 

Harden off first! The wee ones have been indoors, in very gentle conditions, and need to adapt to the outdoors environment before you transplant them out there. If you don’t, the cold can harm them, and they can also get sunburnt, or even damaged by wind. Acclimate them by putting them outdoors for an hour the first day, a few hours the next, gradually increasing the amount of time they spend outdoors until a week or so has passed. DO NOT transplant out frost tender plants (nightshades, squashes, pumpkins, cucumbers, etc) until the danger of frost has passed (unless you have a tunnel or greenhouse).

Transplanting, general: Water plants well the day before. Pick a moderate time of day if it’s been hot. Prepare the hole- bigger than the pot was, and deeper if tomato or brassica. If it’s one that needs extra fertility, thoroughly mix in some compost (I use one to two shovelfuls of rich compost). Loosen the plant in the pot by gently squeezing or tapping, make sure the roots aren’t circling (if they are, gently tease them apart), and put in hole. Back fill hole and press down. Water thoroughly.

For sensitive plants: all the above, but “mud in” the plant, that is, water enough that water sits on the surface for at least 15 seconds. Cover- if it’s hot, a cardboard box or light sheet to shade, if it’s cool a bucket to hold in extra warmth. 

Success through the summer: 

Provide fertility: some plants, like potatoes and kale likely won’t need much additional fertility beyond what’s already in your soil. Some crops, like corn, squash, and broccoli need a lot more fertility to make a decent crop. Either way, if you notice your plants aren’t growing very well, it’s likely a matter of fertility- or watering. 

I prefer to provide this fertility through composts & cover crops. You can also just use a balanced fertilizer,  but look into mycorrhizae before you decide how to go about it. Whether it’s organic or not, it’s generally a good idea to follow the package directions for best results. It’s just as easy to over fertilize and burn your plants as it is to under fertilize and get stunted growth.

Learning More:

Visit community gardens, visit the Master Gardener demonstration gardens, your local extension office for local information, here’s the link to Washington States: http://gardening.wsu.edu/

Facebook groups can be very helpful, gardening forums as well. 

Useful websites in General:

https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/seed-planting-schedule-calculator.html seed sowing date calculator- put in your last frost, get general dates for everything. Honestly, poke around their growers library in general, they've got some cool stuff. 

https://davesgarden.com/guides/freeze-frost-dates/#b for last frost dates (and a lot more).

https://garden.org/apps/frost-dates/Olympia%2C+Washington/ another last frost date site

https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2015/05/150515111628.htm Gardening in a polluted paradise: Is it safe?

Seed Companies I use:

Based in Western Washington:

Uprising Organics (All Open Pollinated)

Based in Western Oregon:

Adaptive Seed (All Open Pollinated)

Territorial Seed

Nicole’s Garden Nursery

Based in B.C.:

West Coast Seed

Based elsewhere:

Fedco Seeds (Co-op)

Johnny’s Selected Seeds (Employee Owned)

There are, of course, many more, but those tend to be my go-to.

 

*Some seed’s cotyledons stay in the soil, and the embryo is the part that emerges. Examples include snow peas, beans, and corn. Others have their seed leaves emerge as their first leaves, e.g., broccoli and sunflowers.

[deathmoth-blog]

The giant leopard moth (Hypercompe scribonia) is a moth of the family Erebidae. They are distributed through North America from southern Ontario, and southern and eastern United States through New England, Mexico, and south to Colombia.The obsolete name, Ecpantheria scribonia, is still occasionally encountered.

They are known to be attracted to bitter, unripe vegetables and broccoli flowers.

This moth species has a wingspan of 76 mm (3 in). Its wings are bright white with a pattern of neat black blotches, some solid and some hollow. The overside of the abdomen is dark blue with orange markings, while the underside is white with solid black spots, and males have a narrow yellow line on the sides. Their legs have black and white bands. Adult moths are strictly nocturnal and do not generally fly before nightfall.

This species has a notable sexual dimorphism in size, with the adult male reaching about 51 mm (2 in) in length, while the adult female grows up to 30 mm (1.2 in).The leopard moth requires two years to complete its round of life. In Missouri, adults are on the wing from May to September and are multivoltine. During mating sessions, the wings of the male cover most of the female's abdomen, which can sometimes lead to the loss of wing scales in the female and have negative effects on her flight efficiency. Their mating sessions are notably long-lasting, taking more than 24 hours. They stay mostly immobile during the whole process, but move from spot to spot to thermoregulate, walking into shadowy areas if too hot or into sunlight if too cold. The male effectuates the locomotion, while the female folds her legs to make her easier to carry.

The caterpillar is of the "woolly bear" kind, with a thick coat of black bristles (setae) and red or orange bands between its segments, which become conspicuous when the caterpillar rolls into a ball for defense. Like the banded woolly bear, its hairs are not urticant nor venomous and do not typically cause irritation. The moth overwinters as a caterpillar, often under the bark of decaying wood.The caterpillar grows to be 7.6 cm (3 in) long.

[path-of-grass-and-leaves]

I went on one of those Buy Nothing groups and asked for small logs and branches. People were pretty excited for the free yard cleanup and I brought home so much wood!

I'm going to convert my current vegetable garden to a native pollinator garden and use some of these logs and branches to start a hugelkultur raised bed. There's a huge area of bare soil in the yard where we had one of those tiny Intex pools, which I'm rehoming. I just don't have enough space or privacy for a pool and last year one of our cardinal fledglings fell into it (and quickly escaped thanks to critter pool ramps), so it's a safety concern for the wildlife.

The bare patch of soil is going to be a big vegetable, flower, and herb garden, with the hugelkultur positioned in the center. I'm hoping all the decaying wood, leaf litter, compost, and grass clippings from the hugel will yeild a nice healthy layer of soil. Leftover logs will be used to grow mushrooms and some of the smaller branches will be piled in a corner for fireflies and overwintering insects.

I also bought some native seeds for the pollinator garden. Right now I've got Wild Strawberry, Early Goldenrod, Red Columbine, and Spotted Touch-Me-Not in the fridge for stratification.

I've got Purple Coneflower started in pots and a packet of Blue Flag Iris seeds, which I'll be planting this autumn. We also have some American Cranberrybush and Bloodroot seeds, but I won't be starting those yet since they have double dormancy requirements. We already have Bloodroot in the garden but I want to plant even more.

At some point I want to try my hand at building a tiny pond for vernal pools. We have a slug problem so I really want to encourage toads and salamanders. I'm not sure if I want to do something above ground with lots or ramps and hiding spots or something in-ground but very shallow, like 6"-8" maximum depth.

It's going to be a busy spring!

[prof-cycad]

As the leaves begin to fall in the temperate regions, decomposers become more commonly seen. Fallen leaves become leaf litter, which is the primary food source for many species of Pokémon. Leaf litter, if not eaten, can even become nutrient rich soil that Grass Types enjoy eating.

Seedot, Pineco and Sewaddle use leaf litter as natural camouflage. Because they blend in easily, early autumn is the best time for them to grow and mature. In turn, weaker predators like Spinarak and Bellsprout will grow in numbers as well.

With the changing of the seasons, many Pokémon will enter their pupal stage at the end of the autumnal season. As their preferred foods stop growing, Kakuna and Metapod will overwinter in a vegetative state not unlike hibernation.

[ereborne]

Memorable year asks, 18 & 19? Also I hope you feel better soon!!

I feel so much better!!!! I am very fortunate in my friends, who all have such patience for me as I languish in the world of blegh

18) A memorable meal: My grandfather sent us a stovetop grill that my grandmother bought in 1996 and then immediately hated, and which has been taking up space in their pantry ever since. We decided to try it out with hot dogs, so it'd be an easy fix if the grill didn't work, but then it worked so well!! The whole household turned out and we had essentially an impromptu indoor cookout. It was so much fun, and we did a lot of exclaiming over how long the grill had waited for us (only I am older than the grill).

19) Something I'm excited for next year: The vegeble man (you know the 'I have a guy for that' jokes? I have a Guy for Vegetables and Plants. He's incredibly nice and he delivers fresh local produce to my porch by request, and occasionally he texts me things like "unexpected bounty! a fern larger than a human head! will you be at home for such a fern, within three hours from now only" and I send back a delighted "yes please!" and then he says "goodness I am glad, I have already sent one toward you") gave me a horseradish plant, which is a thing I have never encountered before. It looks quite dead now, but I'm told it overwinters well and will sprout up on its own in the spring, larger and lusher than before, and then next fall it'll be established enough I can dig up half the roots and make my own fresh horseradish sauce! I'm very excited to see how it goes.

[blackpearlblast]

i had been growing tomatoes because i like tomatoes and a neighbor had given away a start around the time i first tried to get into gardening so i had just stuck with that but i do wonder what vegetables are native to where i live it i grow in a raised bed with storebought soil because i can't bend down/over very well so it's not the plants would match the soil to begin with but still the climate and pollinators could have an effect and it would just be interesting to eat food from here i think. after all the tomato plants freeze and die every year and we have to restart (i tried overwintering but accidentally shocked the plant by bringing it out all at once) and i haven't successfully saved seeds yet so that means rebuying :( which is definitely something that feeds into the whole... yknow. so plants that can handle the climate better would live longer. and maybe some wildlife would eat it too nothing really liked my tomatoes lol just the plant itself which would kill it so i had to fight them.... idk i don't get to do very many activities outside/in nature anymore it's harder for me to get around so im pretty stuck to sidewalks but this is something i can do in my backyard once it's spring again and if im not like. tomatoes were nice because i like to eat tomatoes and i'm still not totally opposed to growing them but i am realizing how much gardening as it was taught to me is about essentially removing the plant from as much nature as possible and that it would probably be a lot more efficient rewarding smarter and just better to work with nature instead of against because like? i mean that's just stupid it's so weird what we don't question SORRYYY THIS POST IS SO LONG i'm just typing as i think this through because it's interesting to me at least

[philodendrontrait]

If you get this, answer w/ three random facts about yourself and send it to the last seven blogs in your notifs. anon or not, doesn’t matter, let’s get to know the person behind the blog!

I used to keep garden snails as pets when I was younger. I had a plastic terrarium from the pet store, gave them names, and fed them with vegetable scraps and egg shells. Every autumn, I would put then back outside for overwintering.

I don't have a driver's license.

I can't keep spider plants alive for the life of me! They are considered easy plants that are hard to kill but I have managed to kill off every single one that I have ever had. All my other, more delicate plants are thriving, so I'm definitely not the problem here ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[swashbucklery]

So anyway for those of you who were like wow we sure learned a lot about Fantasy Textiles but gosh what a relief that @swashbucklery shared all of their textile opinions: sucks to be you! I was chatting with @badlance the other day about Wildwood textile headcanons specifically and I have So Many Additional Thoughts.

Semi-Self-Sufficient Commune Textile Economies In Rural England The Wildwood Which Is Made Up: A Tumblr Post

So. A lot of this is pinned in the assumptions from my previous post, which supposes a decentralized artisan economy in which we have skilled makers producing textiles on a small scale in local cottage businesses. This is underpinned by some of the costuming decisions that we see in the Wildwood episode.

So.

1. Cloth Cloth is going to need to be constructed from a base fibre, and in the forest they're unlikely to be able to access cotton or flax farmed on a large scale without clearing large swaths of forest exclusively for textile farming, which is inefficient at best. Assuming that trade is limited, you are then looking at what textiles can be grown, raised, or foraged close to home.

Wool is an excellent textile substrate, and certainly you can raise sheep on pasture that includes woodland quite effectively as long as it's a low-density forest that has enough ground vegetation. This again is not the large-scale type agriculture you might be thinking of where there are hundreds of sheep that need industrially produced feed and pasturing. It's more like - this is Dave and his ten sheep. Small flocks, with decentralized grazing territory. Which, again, for that scale of production may be plenty, especially if you're raising a multipurpose breed. Sheep have value both as a meat animal and as a textile-producing animal, and you can make truly stellar cheese from sheep's milk. They can lamb every year which gives you a nice circular economy of - you lamb in the spring, have more lambs than you need to maintain your flock, shear their wool in the autumn, and then enjoy a nice lamb dinner if you have more sheep than you can overwinter yourself. Goats would also work, but you get different fiber out of them that is less practical (although can be blended really well with wool for harder-wearing garments), so I'd say probably more likely a sheep-goat mix heavy on the sheep.

(This would also be a way of connecting with larger economies; raising and selling livestock or meat could be an important way of bartering or earning coin for things that they can't produce themselves.)

Depending on the breed of sheep, a lamb fleece will give you 2-4 pounds of wool and an adult sheep typically gives more, and two to three pounds of wool is easily enough for a large adult garment, so that's a new sweater or blanket every year per sheep.

You can knit or weave with wool yarn, which would also yield blankets and bedding.

(Now here we also get into climate, because:

is it warm enough for the sheep to be able to graze on forest pasture year-round or are we looking at having roving shepherds that are moving sheep between summer and winter pastures. Are those regions microclimates within the Wildwood or are they venturing elsewhere (presumably out of the mountains) in the winter?

is it too warm to wear wool garments for part of the year? Does it get cold enough for wearing wool garments to be practical? If they're needed only for outerwear or bedding for a few weeks a year, that puts even less pressure on the wool systems.

I would actually be inclined to assume that they might have seasonal pasturing areas, if only because it explains the need for a larger territory than just their village + forest requires.)

The other textile substrate that I see as being more dominant in the Wildwood subsistence economy is going to be grass-based textiles. Specifically: nettle.

Nettles grow as a weed in a lot of forests ~in regions like the Wildwood~, and can be harvested and spun for fiber much the same way as flax. If you're curious, there's a super crunchy how-to guide here. This will spin up and can be woven into a textile fairly similar to linen, which would be fairly durable and easily made into garments.

I also feel like the Wildwood ecology would likely have some kind of indigo plant growing wild nearby. We see a lot of green textiles, and a very common way to dye green using only plant-based materials is to dye a fabric yellow and then overdye with indigo blue. Yellow dye can be found in a multitude of dye plants (onion skins, marigolds, many others), but blue is much more particular, and would need special attention and knowledge. So knowing this, you would certainly have - a number of spinners and weavers skilled enough to have spinning wheels and floor looms, I think, for larger production. You might have one dyer per community, but this might also be something that spinners and weavers would do themselves.

You also wouldn't necessarily need - like, you would have specific weavers and spinners, but they wouldn't need to be exclusively responsible for all textile production. Ruth Goodman talks in some of her books about the ways that knitting and other repetitive textile work were also things that skilled operators could do without looking, as a way to pass the time in the dark when artificial light was not widespread or particularly effective. That thing of like, spindle-spinning by hand around a fire is something that even the warriors could help with, if they were really running a self-sufficient commune. So in addition to artisans you'd have people weaving and spinning and sewing for their personal use.

It's also important to understand, in this type of economic system, the value and expected longevity of garments. If it takes your neighbour three months to spin and weave enough cloth for a new coat, that coat had better last until it disintegrates. So you see more mending and patching garments together. There is also clearly a culture of - like we see that some of the characters are given clothing to borrow for the party, which is quite sweet. But we also see the significance of those textiles being understood by the characters as - not a gift, but on loan, because of their value.

The above also really highlights the significance of the gift that Jade gets, having her own set of leather armor. Not just because it marks her as part of that society but because of the labour and material value of that type of gift. Which brings me to:

2. Leather I also think the Bone Reavers would 100% be doing their own leatherwork + leather tanning. Like, I know the "skull-boiling cauldron" line in the show was (kind of) a joke, but honestly - if you need the infrastructure to make elaborate bone masks, you for sure have the infrastructure to do DIY leather tanning. Researching that more is not for the squeamish, but if you google "brain tanning leather" there are tons of resources that can explain it more fully. This is a traditional practice among a lot of the North American Indigenous peoples, which could potentially point to the idea of the Reavers - if not amalgamating with, at least learning closely from comparable cultures within the Wildwood.

Raising cattle on a large enough scale to make leather armor probably wouldn't be realistic without a fairly vast territory, but the technique works with lots of types of hides, so sheep and deer would be more accessible alternatives.

And that’s enough textile feelings for today, folks! I hope this was useful, I love talking about little details of domesticity and especially in the context of fantasy worldbuilding.